Securing a Water Heater

One of the more important steps to take when preparing your home is to secure the water heater. Not only can it cause extensive damage should it topple, but an undamaged water heater can provide drinking water if needed. Current building codes require that water heaters be secured in buildings located in seismic zones 3 and 4. However, this has been a relatively recent change, and it is always best to check whether yours is done properly.

Check for the following:

Is there anything blocking between the tank and the wall?
Are the fasteners adequate?
Watch for bolts fastened to drywall.
Watch for straps wrapped around pipes.
Watch for plumbers' tape—this is not strong enough.
You can purchase kits with the necessary supplies from any good hardware store; just make sure the kit you purchase is rated for the size of your water heater. The kit will come with instructions.

If you choose not to purchase a kit, the following will explain what tools and supplies you will need and what steps to take.

What you Need

Tools

Hammer
Pliers
Shears
Tape measure
Adjustable wrench
Power drill with 3/16 and 5/16 drill bits
Stud finder
Eye protection and work gloves

Supplies

4 lengths of 1 ½" wide 16-20 gauge steel strapping (not plumbers' tape)
2 5/16 x 2 ¼" hex head machine bolts with nuts and washers
4 5/16 x 3" lag screws with washers
12 penny nails
Wood for blocking the space between the tank and the wall, such as 2 x 4
Do not use plumbers' tape

What to Do

Make 2 marks on the front of the tank, one 1/3 down from the top and the other 1/3 up from the bottom. Make sure the bottom mark is at least 4" above the water heater controls.
Locate the studs in the wall behind and to each side of the water heater. They are usually 16" apart, and 1 ½" wide.
Mark the center of each stud, at the same heights as the marks on the tank. (You should have 4 marks.)
Measure the distance from the marks on the tank to the marks in the center of the studs.
Cut 4 lengths of strapping. The lengths will be the measured distances plus 4".
Measure the distance between the back of the tank and the wall. This will tell you what thickness of wood you need.
Nail 2 pieces of wood to the wall behind the water heater with 12 penny nails. One should be above the top mark, and the other below the bottom mark. These lengths of wood will prevent the tank from rocking and possibly pulling the straps from the wall.
Drill a 3/16 hole 3" deep at each of the 4 marks on the wall.
For each strap, measure 1 ½" from one end. Drill a 5/16 hole in the middle of that section. Bend the strap 90 degrees at that 1 ½" mark.
Bend the whole strap slightly, so it will wrap around the tank.
Place the end with the bend about 1" to the side of the mark on the tank. The little section should be sticking straight out.
Take the other end of the strap to the wall, bend it slightly, and attach with 5/16 lag screw and washer. Tighten with wrench.
When both straps have been fastened at each level, connect them together in front of the tank. Use the 5/16 x 2 ¼ bolts, with washers and nuts. The bolts will go through the 1 ½" sections sticking out from the tank. There should be a gap between the straps.
Make sure there is no looseness in the straps, but don't make them too tight.
If the water heater is on a pedestal, fasten the pedestal to the wall also.

 


 

 

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